New Routes - Silver Harbour

Hi Alex,

The rock season here has come to an abrupt end, I wanted to send these two routes to you before I forgot them.

Silver Harbour - the the right of #61 Van Shaiky
"Meeek Chimney" 7meters 5.6 Trad
Climb the chimney marked by the word "Meeek" spray painted at its base.
FA: B. Mitchell & A. Mason Fall 06

Pass Lake - between routes #13 and 14
"That's Why I Come Up Here" 7meters 5.7 Trad
To the right of the dogs wall climb the overhanging crack in the cave facing the main cliff.
FFA: R. Clack & B. Mitchell Fall 04

Neither one is worth writing home about. Thanks for the dedication to continuing this guidebook.

Peace,
Bill Mitchell

Scott

Hi there. My name is Andrea and I am Scott's cousin. Scott was adopted by my aunt and uncle Jim and Kay Fettes. I don't beleive Scott has sought after any information about his biological family. I'm fairly certain he was born in Canada though. And more info you can email me at andrea43@gmail.com

Posted by Andrea McGowan

Getting Stung

This route is actually a 5.8

Posted by kyle brooks

"New Route" Getting Stung 5.7

Claghorn Long wall
This climb is located about 50 meters to the right of CNN. (flaging tape marks this climb at the base)
Climb up to a ledge the climb up the corner to a ledge, belay or continue up to the bolted belay at the top. gear to 3 inch.
F.A Danny O'Farrell, kyle Brooks, Annick Blais
Ps we all got stung just befor the ascent of this route Danny got it the worst...

Posted by kyle

"New Route" Des Nuts 5.9+

this route is at claghorn long wall.
Location; park at the second clearcut access road, it is now dug up so you cant drive in. walk towarks the back of the cut to log hammerd into the ground with flaging tape. follow to trail to talus and go stright up towards the drainage gully. the climb is a few feet to the right of the drainage. 5 minute walk to nothing shocking.

This climb follows a 6 boltline up a thin flake to a corner, continue up the dihedral to a roof pull out with a crack and good feet.
6 bolt, finger crack sized gear.
F.A Ryan Hymers, Kyle Brooks, Richie Sitarski
F.F.A kyle brooks oct 28 06

Posted by kyle

Forum for climbers in Tbay

Looks like Andrew Lang is runing a bulletin board for climbers in Tbay!

Everyone check it out and use it whenever you can!
<a href="http://www.atfreeforum.com/climbtbay/index.php?mforum=climbtbay">here</a>
http://www.atfreeforum.com/climbtbay/index.php?mforum=climbtbay

Posted by Dave H

cam-a-lot

I never tried to claim the first ascent of this route. Further, I did not live in Thunder Bay in '95. I did however spend several days scrubbing the route and bolting the belays. Jody.

Posted by Jody Bernst

New Route - The Landmark Mt. Olympus, Orient Bay

Over the weekend of Sept 16th & 17th, Jody Bernst and I estrablished a new route at Mt. Olympus that has been referred to as "The Landmark" (the obvious weakness in the center of the cliff) It was reported that a party had ventured part way up this route in the past, we found no sign of this. The route currently finishes just below the large roof, as we ran out of time to finish it. Some bolts were added for future free climbing and to keep the grade within the reach of most experinced climbers. We have graded the route 5.9 A2, and it involves thin nailing, bird beaks, bashies, a hook or two, and some wide crack on the second pitch. No more than 2-3 body weight placements in a row, with some bolts in between. Pitch 1 start on the splitter hand and finger crack that is on the right side of the small pillar at the base. Climb to the top of the pillar and then ascend the thin crack(knife blade and beaks mostly)on the right hand wall of the dihedral. Passing bolts bashies and other fixed pins to the belay, 30m long. Pitch 2 - climb the wide crack to the belay, 20m long. Pitch 3- only goes up about 3 m to a bolt. This climb is an enjoyable aid climb and has good potential for free climbing. Please leave ALL fixed pro in situ (pins, beaks, bashies etc.) , for future parties and to minimize the rock degredation. On another note last fall on the labour day weekend the first pitch of "The Passage to Valhalla" saw it's F.F.A. by myself and the proposed grade is 5.11+ or 5.12-, most of the gear was allready in place. I will attempt to free the pitch next year placing all gear as I go. Enjoy the routes!!

Posted by Steve Charlton

Poky-Puppy Free

Congrats to you if you free climbed this route.
I do recall one point close to the top where I lead to the left around a flake, and hand hammered (4) RED-HEADS with 3/8 bolts in them and used stoppers as a ladder to get up a blank section. (10 feet +- long). The top of the route ended with 2 RED-HEADS, hangers, biners? and some webbing? (Hell something like that this was back in 1983!)
The lower section of the wall was some feee climbing (low down) then the leapfrogging of cams, and the uses of a few pins, Not sure if we left any in there.
Peter Powell Jugged the line to clean it!

Posted by Shaun Parent-Stewart B.C.

Atikokan Pit photo

Great photos of the wall taken in the fall of 1983. The water at this time was some 25 meters below. By 1984 it was 5 meters below the bottom of the cliff. By 1996 there was a salmon farm in the pit, and this wall was underwater. This wall (Cant recall what we named it) had over 20 bolted routes, and finger cracks. All the hanging belays, bolts, pitons, slings and such are now underwater. It was indeed an interesting area to climb, and one that is now lost forever!

Posted by Shaun Parent -Stewart B.C.

Ice Season!!!

take a look outside, the ice season is comming!!! i'm so stoked!

Posted by Andrew Lang

you found me!

yep that would explain why it was so stinking hard, thanks

Posted by Andrew Lang

squaw bay

i went to squaw today and saw that the route you were on andrew was our mixed route 'beer run'. the upper part would be quite run out due to the fact when we established the climb we used a few ice screws. we began cleaning a new crack just to the rite today.

Posted by brandon