Over the weekend of Sept 16th & 17th, Jody Bernst and I estrablished a new route at Mt. Olympus that has been referred to as "The Landmark" (the obvious weakness in the center of the cliff) It was reported that a party had ventured part way up this route in the past, we found no sign of this. The route currently finishes just below the large roof, as we ran out of time to finish it. Some bolts were added for future free climbing and to keep the grade within the reach of most experinced climbers. We have graded the route 5.9 A2, and it involves thin nailing, bird beaks, bashies, a hook or two, and some wide crack on the second pitch. No more than 2-3 body weight placements in a row, with some bolts in between. Pitch 1 start on the splitter hand and finger crack that is on the right side of the small pillar at the base. Climb to the top of the pillar and then ascend the thin crack(knife blade and beaks mostly)on the right hand wall of the dihedral. Passing bolts bashies and other fixed pins to the belay, 30m long. Pitch 2 - climb the wide crack to the belay, 20m long. Pitch 3- only goes up about 3 m to a bolt. This climb is an enjoyable aid climb and has good potential for free climbing. Please leave ALL fixed pro in situ (pins, beaks, bashies etc.) , for future parties and to minimize the rock degredation. On another note last fall on the labour day weekend the first pitch of "The Passage to Valhalla" saw it's F.F.A. by myself and the proposed grade is 5.11+ or 5.12-, most of the gear was allready in place. I will attempt to free the pitch next year placing all gear as I go. Enjoy the routes!!
Posted by Steve Charlton
