Rock Climbing Company

Thursday, March 11, 2010

Marko Prezelj: Images of Norway

Marko Prezelj, the fantastically accomplished Slovenian alpinist, is also a gifted photographer. In the four years that I've been working on the American Alpine Journal, he's already had one photo on the cover and is likely to have another this year. Recently, he sent me some beautiful photos from a trip to Norway for an international ice climbing meet in Fjellkysten. "I was climbing there with Luka Lindic, and we were exploring the area and climbed several interesting lines," Marko said. "The images are my diary. Climbing was my main interest, and I didn't really focus on photography."

Maybe he wasn't focused on shooting, but Marko came away with some striking images of Norway, reinforcing my strong desire to visit there someday. Indeed, he told me, "It is such a unique place that you should not think twice." With Marko's permission, I offer a selection of his unique images:

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Rock Climbing In Your Living Room

At last, soon there will be no need to ever go outside, or even to a sweaty, dust-filled climbing gym, to experience "the thrill and adrenaline of free soloing." Game maker Human Soft has announced that it is developing a rock-climbing game for Wii called HardGrip.

I quote: "HardGrip takes players on a tour of exotic and stunning locales around the globe as they compete in open events or invitation-only official races. With no harnesses or lifelines, players must solve seemingly impossible challenges and conquer their fear to make it to the top. Speed counts, but climbers who prove their ingenuity and daring will earn more respect. As climbers progress, their skills will have to become truly awesome to make the grade."

Become truly awesome in the comfort of my own home? Sign me up!

Monday, March 8, 2010

Zion Update

Day one:

Hiked up the narrows.

Picked the route. (40 minutes into the narrows)

Started the route.

Got stumped and needed more gear (hiked out to car and back)

Climbed some more.

Slept in St George.

Day two:

Rain, closed narrows due to flash flood warning.

Went running, read and slept.

Day three:

Rain, canyon way too wet, climbed at VRG.

Day four:

? hope to get some gear from the route (may not have time to finish) : (

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

Friday, March 5, 2010

Inspiration

Going through some old files, I came across this Chip Carey shot of John Truden, the multi-time Heavyeight Ski Champion from the early 1970s. Truden tipped the scales at more than 400 pounds. I still think this is one of the most inspiring ski photos I've ever seen.

Thursday, March 4, 2010

April Plans

Jane climbing at Shelf Road, Colorado. photo by Keith Ladzinski

Jane in a tree! Near my parents house in Ohio. (December 2009)

Well, Jane and I have signed up for our first trail running race of the year. It is called the Desert Rats trail running festival. It is located in Fruita, Colorado and will be on the weekend of April 17th/18th. http://www.geminiadventures.com/DesertRATSfestival.html

Because Jane is an animal when it comes to trail running, she is racing the 25 mile course on Sat and the 10 mile race with me on Sun. It should be a great time. The trail is along side of the Colorado River and it shouldn't be too warm in mid-April.

It's my first race where I haven't tried to finish DAL (dead ass last). In high school, my friends and I would always dress up in cos tums and run charity races to finish last and raise everyone's spirits. This time I will try to compete and not finish last. Since it is my first race, I have no expectations of winning, but I would like to make it the 10 miles and not have any severe knee or back pains. I have been training since the new year and feel good about the distance as I often walk nearly as far to go climbing with a heavy pack.

Get out there and enjoy the almost spring time cause winter is just about over!!!

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

What's Next?

Norway, Lofoton Islands. Summer 2009. (Our crew seeing the deserted island where we were jet boating too for some new routing)

On Friday of this week it's time to get back on the road for some rock climbing.

I head to Zion to play at my favorite place. Mike B and I will try a new route in the

Zion Narrows. We will put on our waders and head up stream until we see something

beautiful and hope that it is possible to free climb. Then we will aide, free and ascend the wall

cleaning off loose and dangerous rocks, put in anchors and fix ropes to the top. After all the work is complete and the route is clean from sand and dirt, we will rest and then try to climb it in one day. It is always a lot of work, it always takes a few 16 hour days, and it is always a great time being on the wall hanging in a harness exploring.

I hope you all have an adventure of your own coming up.

Monday, March 1, 2010

Whew

Nelson and his boom. The Hilti box is a weight for the end that he steers, while the camera is on the other end floating in space.

Me, sitting at the base of the sandstone wall, with all my warm clothes on waiting to give the route another try. My feet are wrapped in a fleece and I have the warmest Arcteryx goodies on possible!

Nelson, taking care of business high above the valley floor in Cuchara, CO.

Dan and Nelson on the way back to the car. It was much nicer hiking out on a packed trail. I had them wear red, so I could find them if they got lost!

Well, suffer we did. Nelson forgot to tell Dan that he needed snow shoes and not snow boots, so at 6am saturday morning we left Nelson's and stopped at Dan's to pick up his pair. Three hours later we arrived at Cuchara, CO and saw lots of snow. Now it is at an elevation near 10,000 feet so we knew there would be some, but the approach was through three-four feet of the white stuff.

I broke trail and it wasn't one of the easier snowshoeing adventures that I have been on. At the cliff's base there was plenty of dry space to change out of my soaking wet clothes into the dry and warm stuff, I waited nearly forty minutes for the others to reach me.

Then it was time to climb the route for video and stills.

Take a peek at http://www.dangpix.com/peacock/index.html for Dan's photos and keep an eye on Deadpoint Magazine for a video of the day in the coming weeks.

The highlight of the day was taking the big whip from the last possible move on the route. I fell nearly the height of the wall only to be caught by Dan. I then booted him in the head as we came together in mid air just a few feet above the ground. Good times. The air temperature was around the upper 30's or even 40 so it was really perfect for climbing. I hung out in all my clothes while we changed angles for the cameras, but it really was quite pleasant out in the snow.

Thanks to Dan and Nelson for coming out to play.

Enjoy my photos and Dans and the 5 minute video short that Nelson and Chuck are putting together.