Sunday, November 14, 2010

Privacy Policy for http://climbingrockcompany.blogspot.com/

Privacy Policy for http://climbingrockcompany.blogspot.com/

If you require any more information or have any questions about our privacy policy, please feel free to contact us by email at rumahkacakwetan@gmail.com.

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Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Stone Mountains


Check out this new climbing photography book by Jim Thornburg.
It's coming out this November and going to make you sweat about your favorite crags in North America. Jim has taken the best of his world class collection of climbing photos and given them to you to view in the comfort of your own home. Flip the pages and get inspired. I think I may have even written something about Zion in this one!
Check it out and buy one!!
Thanks for including me in this one Jim.
piz : )

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Indian Creek and Washer Woman

Jonas (from Stockholm, Sweden) and I somewhere on Washer Woman in Canyonlands National Park. This was his first desert tower and his first time in the park and his first trip climbing on the soft desert sandstone on Utah/Colorado.
Brian hiking the low crux fingers section of Monster Tower. I took this photo from Washer Woman. He and Mike B cruised up the classic north face while we tackled In Search of Suds.
Two wonderful towers that are not too far from a long ride on the white rim in Canyonlands National Park. Logan and Adam were out for the time of their life when they joined us for this Indian Creek and tower climbing weekend. Great job guys!
Jonas after his first lead at the Creek! AAAHHHH YEAHH!
What were we thinking with this "warm up"?
piz : )

Monday, November 8, 2010

Boulder and Rock Climbing Routes in the Surroundings of Cusco

Rock climbing is growing rapidly and is wide open to exploration and new routes, there are several local climbers willing to point out established areas. Among the most well know and frequented places are the north area, the best lime stone climb area, routes have varying levels of difficulty to challenge all type of climbers, although many climbers adhere to "minimal impact" and "leave no trace" practices. Popular areas for climb and boulder are also archeological and sacred places for locals. People would prefer that climbers not climb these sacred places and have made this information well known to climbers (see advises) .The potential threat to these resources has led to climbing restrictions and closure the nex routes:
The Evils Balcony, La Garganta, Nomos, La Escuela.
Many non-climbers object the appearance of chalk marks, bolts and slings on visible cliffs. Since these features are small, visual impacts can be mitigated through selection of neutral rock-matching colors for equipment. Today the closure of climb routes more often is because disagreement about the appropriateness of drilling and placing permanent bolts and other anchors.


Map Review

Friday, November 5, 2010

Setting

Pete "the Greek" first ascenting on the Green River, during last years Green River trip.
Pete putting in some anchors on a new crack. Splitter thin hands and straight as a nail.
Me on Willow, the roof is a about 4 inches wide and the pitch is a whole rope length.
Jesse bouldering at Riggs Hill, Grand Junction. I always look to him for good technique!
Me at Riggs and yes I sometimes boulder : )

This week has been flying by. The kids at school are in their uneasy stage because Thanksgiving break is near and because the routine of school is wearing on them.
Jane has been training hard for her Marathon in January and I am nearly healed from my foot injury during the 24 hours of Boulder race. It has taken nearly three weeks for my foot not to throb all day. I am happy that I can begin weight training again and using my foot aggressively.
I have been able to work my core strength though and feel it slowly coming back. Lots of hanging on a pull up bar and doing leg raises and other similar excesses to bring back the burn of climbing inverted. I complement those excesses with some that are based on the floor. Those 30 minutes each day are painful, but will help when I begin hanging upside down again on rock climbs.
I have also began setting routes and boulder problems at the Grand Junction Climbing Center. A gym that has taken a beating over the years with neglect and various owners. I believe that with its latest owners passion and interest in the sport, that this gym, however small will come back to life with all the changes that are coming. It is a great time to be there and training with all the friendly locals who come by to play and train!
piz : )

Sunday, October 31, 2010

Fall Weekend

Jesse taping his foot due to his new shoes not treating him right. On a side note. Jesse hikes really fast and its tough to keep up with his long stride!
Here Chuck is jugging up pitch 2. He is the only filmmaker that I have ever heard of carrying that camera (THE RED) up on walls to shoot rock climbing or any kind of climbing movie with. He must take care not to drop any of the asseseries while assembling and disassembling the camera during the shoot. Being over a hundred feet up with a very expensive camera is not really the best place, but a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do.
This is me after I finally figured out the moves to climb this beast without falling!
Here I am resting on the valley giant after getting spit out of the overhanging off width.
Jesse took these photos and this one is of the beautiful skyline and the bomber anchor in the detached block that I had him hang out on during the climb. Thanks man!

Got to play on a new route that has taken a long time between attempts. The weather has been changing fast and it has been tough to get out after school. So its been over a month since I first started trying this route in the Colorado National Monument.
I finally sent the first pitch on lead (although I TR's it clean on the first day) and was able to attempt the second pitch off width. The second pitch was really a trip figuring out. It takes a nice big cam (the valley giant which is way bigger than a number 6 block diamond cam) and a fully tipped out number 6. It overhangs a few feet and comes out a unique dihedral. Once you overcome the off width in the overhang, you can then switch gears to the off width on the vertical terrian. I took a beating on it as I learned and rehearsed the moves. I am optimistic that I will do the route on my next attempt, but as with life, who knows when that will be? I am glad that Nelson and Chuck came out to shoot some video and that Jesse has been a super good friend to want to partake in the long and boring belays while getting pegged with chunks of loose rock.
piz : )

Thursday, October 28, 2010

Desert Tower Book

Mike B and I in Sweden 2007. But to the real point of this entry, The new and only Desert Tower Book by Crusher Bartlett.
Last night "Crusher" came to Grand Junction to share his 30 years of climbing and his love of first ascents and desert towers. In his slide show, we learned how he earned his nickname and why he became passionate about scrappy, loose, and dangerous sandstone towers. It was wonderful to hear if his successes and failures. It brought everyone in the audience closer to what climbing is for us climbers. Sometimes you complete your goal and often you head home empty handed with a little less gas money!
For Crusher, standing on top of a tower embodies everything that is good in climbing. It is the journey, the adventure, the problem solving, the companionship and the moment.
As I bought the book last night, I knew that this modern timepiece, that begins from the first tower ascents to myself free climbing those towers, was a great artifact with its huge color photos and insightful tales of all the historic greats who spent their lives playing in the sand.
This book is a must have if you have ever spent time in the desert either climbing or gazing at those oddities reaching for the sky.
piz : )