This is the first run on toprope of the short roof crack I freed this weekend. It is a first ascent, meaning that noone else had ever climbed it before. After working out the moves and removing some lichen and loose rock, I was able to climb it with out falling.
Just after completing the first free ascent! A couple of long pulls through the steep section and whamo, into the kneebar at the top. It's a great short roof problem.
If you notice, the route is just to the right of the Cynical Pinnical in the South Platte, Colorado. Click on the photo for a better view and route beta. I think the hike is about 30-40 minutes up hill to the last outcrop before the base of the main towers.
Top Jimmy, placing his first anchors at the top of the route! It was a beautiful day to be in the Platte. Thanks Top for coming out to play.
Looking up at the route, the beautiful huge dead tree at the base is a great reminder that you are there. There is a easy start to the route up a crack and then you place some gear at the horizontal break and then trust your jams as you exit to the vertical face and into the sunlight at the top. I wore tape gloves and would recommend them due to granite being slippery and rough all at the same time.
Mike and I at the crag. T-shirts while climbing in the 22 degree temps and jackets at the belay! We spent the day at the Cat Wall nearly all alone.
Sometimes the clouds came and I had to wear my favorite Arcteryx top while climbing. It was a real bummer... NOT! Mike just bought some new cams and it was really nice having cams that work and actually trigger in the desert.
Mike on the King Cat (I think). It is a lie back to hands to fists to a hand crack through the roof. Great fun with some killer rests! A real classic at the Creek.
Waking up after sleeping out at the creek. Wasn't too cold at night, especially after making pasta and listening to playoff football on the radio. Sitting out under the stars in my warm Arcteryx clothes is easy cause they are so warm and cozy.
From I-70 it didn't look good on the way to the Creek. But as usual it was perfect when we got there.
I was out climbing on the granite of the South Platte in Colorado and found a roof crack that looks more like a butt crack. I didn't get a chance to try it on this winter afternoon because of the days plans but I will be back for the first ascent!
Ben underneath the three quarter inch right angling crack that we were able to climb last weekend. My friend Jason shared the route with us and I was able to figure out the crux moves and climb it without falling. We called it the Icicle because while on the climb, Ben threw an icicle from the route at Jason and hit him square in the shoulder from 40 feet away. Good times. It is just another reminder that there are many first ascents to be opened up in the Platte. This new climb goes at about 5.10+/5.11-.
Ben cleaning the gear off the Bad Juju roof. Jason invited me to check it out this weekend. Its a great short climb with perfect hand jams out a roof. You can see that it climbs pretty steep and really throws a great pump at your forearms.
Ben beginning the Bad Juju roof in the South Platte. After the 40 minute uphill approach this short route will make you work for the anchors.
The middle feature has a 1500 ft route called El Sendero Luminoso a 15 pitch 5.12. We didn't get a chance to try the bearutiful climb due to some rain during our trip. Some day I will get back to the park to give it a try.
Market day in Hidalgo. They sell fresh meat, veggies, fruits. You can buy clothes, electronics/CD's (old), art, house supplies, tools... you get the picture! It only takes about 10-15 minutes to walk from your camping area to the market. (market days are tuesdays and fridays) It's a great place to try some food, try speaking the language and to meet some of the locals, they are sooo kind!
Mike and my bunk beds. If we weren't climbing or eating than mike was on the internet doing work from the campground. The shower was hot, the water is safe to drink and the beds are comfy!
Mike following me up another beautiful multipitch route in the Potrero.
Mike and I heading up Space Boyz early in the morning. We got special permission from the local government to climb/inspect the wall for rockfall damage because I am trained as a Geological Engineer. Unfortunately, there is a ton of loose stuff above a couple routes on this wall. If reopened you should wear your helmets and be aware of massive rockfall possibilities.
Me at the base of some climb. Above: Mike Brumbaugh with the Outrage wall in the background. He is enjoying the view on one of the spires at the park.
Jane belaying me on The Flight of the Peacock 5.13- at the Peacock boulders/climbing area. About a 40+ foot fight to the top! Get tired at the top and you are taking the flight of the peacock. This route has it all, kneebars, crimps, side pulls, pinches and jugs.
Some of Janes family on the newer 5.9's!
Janes brother Matt, climbing on a cold thanksgiving break day.
At the summit with A-Burr, Brian H and Mike B. (A-Burr must be on riods!)
Mike and I somewhere on the 1000 foot wall!
Perfect splitter cracks on this one. Brian heading up.
Mike looking for some TP. hehehe
Just another 1000 foot roadside granite route in Lofoton, Norway.Hey everyone, I would like to invite anyone who would like to donate to the Big Brothers Big Sisters of Colorado to contact me at pizem@hotmail.com
You have until December 19 to help out!
Thanks
piz : )
