More Norway

We got the rain that everyone talks about way up north in Norway but it was still cool walking around the tiny fishing villages of Lofoton. From the looks of the climbers in front of me, there are never poor conditions for climbing here!

On our rain day, we found Lofoton's version of a roof crack, pretty short, but mainly dry. I was feeling under the weather this day and taking black liquorish flavored cough medicine! It was not good, but it helped I think : ) I think that Brian was giving it a try in this shot. (mike and ari were spotting)

Brian and Ari coming up one of the early routes we climbed on a perfect day!

The views were unparalelled while hiking to climbs and while climbing them. Our rental is on the road below and the hike was just 15 minutes on a nice trail! Later on the trip Andy jumped off that bridge to the left and bruised his butt on entry (had to be nearly a 50 foot drop into the icey water below)

Roadside bouldering goes on for miles!

Bolting

This weekend was filled with a bunch of hard work at the Peacock boulders in southern Colorado. Dave, a buddy that I grew up in Ohio with, a fellow climber and who is now a first ascenionist, and I got inspired by the short and compact sandstone at the area and bolted some of the finer looking possibilities. In all we established 7 new sport climbs and one crack climb. Now the area boasts nearly 20 boulder problems and 8 short and powerful routes up to 35 feet tall. We currently have 1 5.9, 2 5.10's, 2 5.11's, 2 5.12's and 1 5.13. Not all the routes have been sent yet, but I am pretty confident of the grades. As the area gets more and more boulder problems and routes I will update the blog.

New Bouldering

playing on a new problem at the Peacock Boulders.

Just before I fell and landed on two crash pads (at separate times/that means I bounced off the first and flew onto the next one before rolling down the hillside in the pine needles)

Chuck in the worst light ever! These problems were sharper and more powerfull that we imagined.

Chuck at the base of the first wall we developed. I think the top out is nearly 20+ feet tall. I was nervous since I didn't have my highball bouldering head just yet. Chuck just looks bloated, he's not really that chubby!

View of Cuchara ski resort and the wonderful fall colors.

Once I recovered from the river trip it was time to get back to work.

Chuck and I headed south to a place near La Veta, Colorado to develop some Dakota sandstone boulders. Chuck makes movies, crushes rocks, drives a cool car and has turned into a genuinely nice guy. (it has taken years but it finally happened) Anyway, we were able to stay at my in-laws house right across the street and it's an awesome place with more knick-knacks on the walls and tables and everywhere, it really makes you feel like you are at home.

We got out there even though Chuck "forgot" his wallet and we headed up the hill to seek out dream boulders and new problems. Chuck was a bit skeptical about my description of the area but believed once we found some stone to play on. In all after two days of hiking, scrubbing, and falling we developed nearly 20 problems, left a ton of work and boulder problems to be climbed!

It was a perfect fall weekend, cool temperatures and beautiful scenery.

Some of the problems are pretty tall, some are crimpy and sharp and some are complete with huge hand holds. There is plenty to do for all abilities and so much more to go in. I will be heading back to eventually bolt some sport lines and do some more bouldering!