More Mexico

In this video short, Mike and I have hitched a ride with the beer truck from town back to the Posada (the campground). You never know what you will be up to when Mike B is around!
We had spent some time in town buying some fresh food and trying to get the local police to open up a wall that had been closed due to rock fall. We eventually got permission from the city to inspect the wall (by climbing it of course) and unfortunately it looked pretty unstable. Who knows what will happen in the future with safe climbing access to the Jungle Wall.

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

Mexico Trip Report

Me at the base of some climb. Above: Mike Brumbaugh with the Outrage wall in the background. He is enjoying the view on one of the spires at the park.

We stayed at the Posada and this was our room.

Simple but nice and a really really hot shower!

To the right: Mike on Time Wave Zero a fun 22 pitch climb in the park. We climbed it in a little over an hour and a half.



Mike on the phone while we wait it out in Dallas.

The Monterrey, Mexico airport was closed due to fog so we had to spend a night in Dallas.

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

Back from My Travels

Good day folks,
After a week in Mexico, followed by a week in Ohio,
I will now be back updating the blog on a regular basis.
Some quick updates before the photos and stories begin later this week.
We were able to climb almost 180 pitches while at Potrero Chico!
My Cleveland trip was spent with my wonderful family, trail running, ice skating, hiking and of course eating home cooked meals. It has been most excellent.
I even had time to pull my groin : ( oh well a bit more rest before training begins again.
Happy Holidays and I hope to see you all in 2010!

piz : )

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

Caving=Scary

The tragic death of a 26-year-old caver in Utah on Thanksgiving confirmed my long-held feeling: Cavers are nuts. Of course, many cavers likely say the same thing about climbers. When I tried caving the first time last summer, I got a lesson in perspective and humility that gave me a lot more sympathy for people who are afraid of heights.

My own fear is claustrophobia. It's not a severe case, but it's bad enough. I first noticed it years ago during a big snowstorm in the Adirondacks, with three of us crammed into a two-man tent. As the walls pressed inward, I felt discomfort rising to panic, and I had to open the door to let fresh air wash over my face—and fresh snow fill the tent. My claustrophobia has gotten slightly worse over time, and now snow caves and squeeze chimneys may give me serious concern. Sometimes on a cold night, with my mummy bag zipped up tight, I'll wake and go into a panic, grasping for the zipper.

I wasn't a prime candidate for caving.

Yet I'd always wanted to try it. I loved the various tourist caves I'd visited—no problem for me in those vast chambers. And if it weren't for my claustrophobia, I knew I'd love caving: the climbing aspect, the feeling of exploration, the strange geologic forms. It was all me. And so when my wife and I visited friends in southwest England last summer, and they offered to take us into a famous local cave, I had to sign on.

People have been exploring Swildon's Hole for more than a century. It's the biggest known cave in the Mendip Hills. The rock inside is polished smooth from thousands of hands and boots, and the floor is clear of obstacles. Our host, a friend and local caver named Steve Cosh, had been inside Swildon's dozens of times. He used to lead youth groups through the cave (we borrowed our headlamps, helmets, wellington boots, and spiffy jumpsuits from his old boss). Swildon's has some serious caving, including many underwater passages, but we weren't going that far. How bad it could be?

Pretty freakin bad. Swildon's has a tiny hut atop its entrance, which is like a manhole with a short ladder. At the bottom of the ladder, the passage turns horizontal and narrows to the point where you have to squirm on your back or stomach. I was third in our party of five, and as soon as I got into the narrows, the old familiar panic began to rise. I squirmed back again, bumping into the feet of a friend, which only made it worse. I've got to get OUT! I shouted. Back on top, I told the others to go ahead. I might or might not follow.

After a moment, I decided to try again. Going last helped. I could still see a glimmer of daylight as I shimmied through that initial passage, and I rationalized that I could always escape, with no one to block my way, if things got bad. My wife and friends were just ahead, encouraging me to follow. The passage was wider now, and I could scurry along on my feet, ducking under the ceiling. But then it narrowed past crawling size again—mandatory belly or back scraping. It was only 10 or 15 feet, and I could hear Steve talking to me from the other side. "Once you're through this one, it gets bigger for quite some time," he said, as if talking to a 14-year-old from one of his hoods in the woods programs. "Just give it a try. If you don't like it, you can go back out."

I was ready to go back out. But I also really wanted to continue. I narrowed my focus to the wall beside me, to the rivulets of water on the limestone, the strange knobs and tendrils of rock. Slowly, I felt my breathing slow, the panicky feeling subside. I decided to go for it. I squirmed through to Steve, and he smiled and pointed the way ahead. "No way," I said. "You go first—I've got to be last in line.

We were underground nearly two hours, exploring Swildon's upper passages. We clambered up and down drop-offs and through streams running along the floor. We climbed down and then back up a eight-foot waterfall. We had to boulder up through a hole named the Toilet Bowl. It was fascinating and beautiful, and at times even fun. My claustrophobia never got too severe after the initial panics, but it was always there, just under the surface, ready to rear up and smother me. I was glad to have entered Swildon's, but I was also very glad to get out.

Walking back to the car, Chris, my wife, was hopping with enthusiasm. She had loved it, couldn't wait to go again. "You're on your own, honey," I told her. Once was enough for me.

At times, I've been known to grow impatient with gripped climbers or with friends who are spooked by heights on a mountain scramble. What is wrong with them? I'll think. But now that I've felt a little taste of what they must be feeling, I hope I remember it the next time I'm with an acrophobe. Neither claustrophia nor acrophobia is an irrational fear, after all. And, of the two, acrophobia has more power to preserve one's life. But caving still seems nuts to me. Get me back to the airy perils of cliffs and ice falls.

In the photo: Yup, that's me, smiling for the camera, but not because I'm enjoying myself. OK, maybe just a little.... Photo by Steve Cosh 

Probably Not the Best Screw

Never Stop Litigating

I just had to laugh when I heard the North Face was suing an upstart company in the Midwest that calls itself the South Butt and sells clothing with parody logos and slogans ("Never Stop Relaxing"). A very similar scenario unfolded about a decade ago when I was running Rock & Ice.

The old Franklin Climbing company had been running a series of full-page ads featuring portraits of interesting climbers posing against a white backdrop. The ads were simple and sharp, and we liked having them in the mag. In early 1999, the company sent us a particularly funny one: a photo of a baby boy sitting on the floor and peering into the front side of his diaper, with the tiny tagline "Never Stop Explorin.' " We thought it was harmless and cute, and if we thought about it at all (which I doubt), we expected the North Face would laugh along.

Uh-uh. Shortly after the ad appeared, I had to take a call from the company's CEO—the CEO, for cripe's sake—who said he was suing Franklin and that we'd better stop running that ad immediately or he'd sue us too. I groveled a bit (hey, we needed the North Face's advertising money more than we needed a freedom-of-speech case), and the problem went away. The Franklins' problems with TNF eased, too, although probably not as quickly.

This time, though, the legal action may have backfired for TNF. In the age of viral information, the North Face just looks like a bully, and the South Butt had more than 4,400 fans on its Facebook page this morning. They're undoubtedly selling loads more clothes than they ever expected, though I doubt they were prepared for the onslaught of orders.

I also doubt the South Butt will be in business for long. The Franklin incident seemed ridiculous to everyone but TNF, but in this instance I'd say the North Face actually has a very strong case—I mean, South Butt is trying to sell its clothes primarily by trashing the TNF brand. That's not right. But for the North Face, will winning in court mean losing with the public? 

Lacelle Avalanche Video Analysis

Doug Chabot, director of the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center, prepared this excellent video analysis and reconstruction of the avalanche accident that claimed the life of the great Canadian ice climber Guy Lacelle last Thursday in Montana's Hyalite Canyon. This tragic incident and Doug's timely video are sobering reminders of the dangers that lurk in seemingly innocuous terrain. You just can never let down your guard—ever.

New Routes for All

Jane belaying me on The Flight of the Peacock 5.13- at the Peacock boulders/climbing area. About a 40+ foot fight to the top! Get tired at the top and you are taking the flight of the peacock. This route has it all, kneebars, crimps, side pulls, pinches and jugs.

Some of Janes family on the newer 5.9's!

Janes brother Matt, climbing on a cold thanksgiving break day.

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

Cool Days Climbing Tip Number 3

Its been pretty cold here in Denver the last week or so and most climbers have been stuck climbing indoors. My advice to all you folks pulling on plastic is to make sure that you take the time to warm up properly.
It is easy to get all excited at the chance to boulder and lead indoors after being stuck inside for days, but be careful not to make this winter a time for recovery instead of a time to build strength and power. Warm up you arms, shoulders, fingers hands and stretch your legs. Any series of common excersizes will do the job, but just do them! You and your body will love you when spring time is just around the corner and you are not nursing a lingering finger or shoulder injury!

I head to Mexico on Friday for the Climb a Thon in Potrero Chico!
Continue to make donations and support any quality local causes.

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

Nordic Skating

The December issue of 5280 has my story about three new "adrenaline" sports to try in Colorado this winter. Of the three, by far the most intriguing to me is Nordic skating, combining the long blades of speed skaters with cross-country ski boots and bindings for long-distance cruising on ice. Although few people in Colorado have even heard of Nordic skating, it's big in New England, where Vermont-based Nordic Skater sells and rents the gear, starting as low as $89 for skates and bindings. (Most cross-country skiers already own the necessary boots.) As a kid in Maine, I skated along winding streams to connect chains of frozen ponds, and when I talked to Jamie Hess, owner of Nordic Skater, I was pleased to hear that people still skate up the Royal River near my hometown. There's nothing quite like speeding over bumpy ice along a twisting creek, each bend bringing a new revelation. I can't wait to try it again.

Running/Climbing Gear

Gear summary: Scarpa Raptor trail running shoes (awesome)
Arcteryx: vest=Celeris, pant=Gamma LT, glove=Delta,=Tau Pullover

Ge4t outside and play!

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com
http://andrewburr.com
http://ladzinski.com

National Geo Adventure Calls It Quits

The December/January issue of National Geographic Adventure will be the last one, another victim of the Great Recession and the changing tides—the tsunami—affecting print journalism. I suppose I shouldn't be surprised, but I am. Since its launch in 1999 under editor John Rasmus, the magazine has balanced superb reporting—I've got The New Age of Adventure collection by my bedside—with massive amounts of trip and equipment service material, and it was backed by the mighty National Geographic Society. I didn't do much work for the magazine, but I always enjoyed my dealings with its editors, especially Cliff Ransom and former editors Jim Meigs and James Vlahos. Steve Casimiro, the magazine's peripatetic West Coast editor, has just published a good report and reflection on his magazine's demise at his Adventure Life blog. Good luck to everyone.

Off Route in Nepal

Is it just me, or does it seem misguided that Nepal's cabinet ministers are staging a meeting at Everest base camp to call attention to global warming's threat to the Himalaya? The ministers have flown to Lukla and soon will continue by air to base camp. That's X number of helicopter flights from Kathmandu to Lukla, plus Y flights to Everest base camp, plus Z return flights, all adding up to a nasty output of carbon emissions. The threats to Nepalese mountain communities are real, but is flying around the Himalaya the best way to publicize them?

More of the Gear that I need!

I am really glad that you have visited my blog.
Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon.
Rob Pizem

And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites:

http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com

My Favorite Sites/Fundraiser

The Climbing for kids is going very well.
Big Brothers Big Sisters of Colorado will be very happy with the unexpected additional funds this year!
Thanks for your continued support and for all those who are able to help out in any way.

piz : )


http://www.scarpa.net
http://www.arcteryx.com
http://camp-usa.com
http://sterlingrope.com
http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com
http://www.wunderground.com
http://climbing.com
http://rockandice.com
http://deadpointmag.com
http://urbanclimbermag.com

Rob Pizem Climbing

Just letting you know what goodies my sponsors provide me. Thanks!

Norway Photos

At the summit with A-Burr, Brian H and Mike B. (A-Burr must be on riods!)

Mike and I somewhere on the 1000 foot wall!

Perfect splitter cracks on this one. Brian heading up.

Mike looking for some TP. hehehe

Just another 1000 foot roadside granite route in Lofoton, Norway.

Its time for some more Norway photos, enjoy!

Deep Water Reservoir-ing

Now this looks like fun...





Deep-water soloing above Lake Powell. Photos by Rachel Kemble (upper left, courtesy of Josh Thompson) and Greg D., used with permission. See Mountain Project for more pics, including some enticing walls with not-so-soft landings.

Weekend with the Peters

The morning after the race! Fresh snow.

Attempting to move a river raft from the upstairs bedroom with Cindy and Rob Peters

Trying to slide the raft through the upstairs bedroom balcony.

The boat almost on the ground floor!

A happy Cindy next to her pride and joy! : )

Jane and I stayed with some wonderful friends in Moab the weekend of her 50km race.

I got to help out moving a river raft from the upstairs bedroom (fully inflated) to a storage unit down the road.

Thanksgiving

Update on the Big Bothers Big Sisters Climb a Thon
We have raised nearly 800 dollars!
Thanks so much and keep the donations coming.
I will make the contribution just before new year when I return from Mexico!

Other than that Thanksgiving with my wifes family was excellent in Cuchara, Colorado.
We ate, went climbing, watched movies, ate some more, played cards, played with dogs and jept in touch with family!
I even bolted two new climbs on the sandstone near the house!

Climb a Thon

Hey everyone, I would like to invite anyone who would like to donate to the Big Brothers Big Sisters of Colorado to contact me at pizem@hotmail.com

You have until December 19 to help out!

Thanks

piz : )

Climbing for Kids

Climbing For Kids

Rob Pizem and Mike Brumbaugh are asking for your help!

We are looking for cash donations this holiday season to help support the wonderful work of the Big Brothers Big Sisters of Colorado!

Rob and Mike will be heading to Hildalgo, Mexico to climb as many rock climbs as they can at El Potrero Chico in one weeks time.

All you have to do is volunteer to make a donation or volunteer to match a dollar amount to the number of routes Rob and Mike can complete in a week!

Example : If They climb 50 routes in a week, you donate $50. It’s that easy.

Rob and Mike are attempting to climb between 20 to 40 routes a day, because they want to raise as much money as they can for the children of Colorado.

Please contact:
Rob Pizem at 303 565 6022 or pizem@hotmail.com,
with your donation information or help out in the following ways:

Donate over the Phone: 303 433 6002 ext.525

Donate by Mail:
Big Brothers Big Sisters of Colorado
1391 N Speer Blvd, Ste 450
Denver, CO 80204
*Make checks payable to Big Brothers Big Sisters of Colorado

Mission Statement of Big Brother Big Sisters of Colorado
The mission of Big Brothers Big Sisters of Colorado is to help children reach their full potential through professionally supported, one-to-one, volunteer mentoring relationships with measurable impact.

Jane Race Video

The race was beautifully set all over the mountains and valleys, slick rock and sand, and flats and cliffs just outside Moab, Utah.

Jane Race Photos

Jane on the last, long hill climb! The Colorado river in the background.

Jane cruising through the desert.

Jane running through the brush along the Colorado river near Kane Creek.

Jane at the prerace meeting with her favorite CAMP trail running pack.

Jane made Lexi pee before the race!
Here is a summary of the Janes first ultra marathon (50km).

-woke up, ate a bagel with pb and j and some diet pepsi

-made doggy pee

-stretched and light jog

-8 hour run/walk through desert (on and off trail)

-finish with tight IT bands and a taste for next years!

Great job Jane!

The rAcE

On the Fisher Towers freeing the moves with my CAMP helmet and Arcteryx's Dually Belay Jacket and R-320 harness in the freezing temps. AHH YEAH.

Hanging around on my roof crack project in the South Platte, Colorado.

My beautiful wife, Jane : )

This is the weekend that my wife Jane has been training for months for.

The Moab Ultimate XC is a 56km race through the desert, all off trail, all burly.

She has to climb up clifflines over the Colorado river, scramble through boulders and make her way through sandy slot canyons. She rules! I posted a wedding shot of us. Yeah, I got married in my Arcteryx Spotter pants. : )

So, I have been letting my fingers heal for a week now.

They are close to being able to be used again!
Yeah!! This week off I have have had time to take care of stuff at home and work with a new client at the climbing gym. A climber who has been climbing longer than I have been alive and still aggressive and wanting to improve! It is really fun to work with folks who are ready to take a closer look at their talents and modify what they have been doing in the name of improving.

I think that improving at anything requires the ability to constantly self monitor and evaluate.

Look closely at your habits, movements, strengths and weaknesses and dissect them and adjust them for whatever goal you are shooting for. I have had to do this on many a routes in order to complete them.

Something Funny

This guy doesn't look that extreme!
Ari, sleeping in the van while in Norway.

He's in the middle of drooling on me!

I am Lame!

I sliced into three of my four fingers on my left hand while cutting bread for breakfast.

More Norway

We got the rain that everyone talks about way up north in Norway but it was still cool walking around the tiny fishing villages of Lofoton. From the looks of the climbers in front of me, there are never poor conditions for climbing here!

On our rain day, we found Lofoton's version of a roof crack, pretty short, but mainly dry. I was feeling under the weather this day and taking black liquorish flavored cough medicine! It was not good, but it helped I think : ) I think that Brian was giving it a try in this shot. (mike and ari were spotting)

Brian and Ari coming up one of the early routes we climbed on a perfect day!

The views were unparalelled while hiking to climbs and while climbing them. Our rental is on the road below and the hike was just 15 minutes on a nice trail! Later on the trip Andy jumped off that bridge to the left and bruised his butt on entry (had to be nearly a 50 foot drop into the icey water below)

Roadside bouldering goes on for miles!

The Finished Product

Unpainted but beautiful!

Wheels for the bottom

Cutting board and microwave holder space and garbage in the bottom.

Snow Days

filing my hinge for smooth operation.

Making the intial measurements before making the cuts.

These are what we started with. Pieces of pine.

Dave and Ali on Halloween Eve. I mean Ron and Veronica!

Our house with lots of snow!

Last week we had a late October snow storm adn for my district, three snow days in a row!
I was able to rest, sleep in, clean the house, train for climbing and spend time with my wife.

It was a wonderful unanticipated break that will not be forgotten. I was able to build a garbage box for my house and work on my power at the local climbing gyms.

Jane and I also watched the movie Drag Me to Hell with some friends on Halloween Eve.